I G N I T I O N S Y S T E M
EBS-2021 IGNITION SYSTEM
In fact this system is an improved version of the Motobécane system from 1968.
No electronics, but a simple straightforward technology, that can be fixed when you are in the middle of nowhere.
There are several versions, because of breakerpoints, ignition groundplate and mounting position of the external coil.
Some people want to hide everything behind shields, while others place everything full in sight.
Are those sets still available?
Sometimes we have some sets available in our stock. It is however difficult to find certain ignition parts, that meet our high standards.
One of the disadvantages of Corona was that a lot of jumbles have stopped.
FEEDING COILSThere are no fitting problems, we keep on using the old steel core on the same place.
All the high tension part have removed from the hot spot under the flywheel
Electronic components don't like heat and an excellent ignition system can give problems during a long trip in the hills.
This system is quite simple and can be easily repaired when you are riding in the middle of nowhere.
One of the best ideas of Pantin was rewinding old high tension coils as a feeding coil.
Thanks to this idea lots of feeding coils were suddenly available for engines equipped with an internal coil.
There are several advantages when applying this system:
Picture on the right: an example of a M1-feeding coil.
This system can be applied on other cyclemotor brands, too.
Whenever they have applied a flywheel-ignition system with breaker points, then you could rebuild your ignition system.
People are always surprised about the results. Very often the engine is more powerful, because there are no missing strokes anymore.
The best ideas are afterwards quite simple.
The simple ignition terminal, which is mounted on the spot of the former
internal capacitor, is such an example.
This little screw connects up and till three wires and makes an end to
the complicated mounting of several wires at the breaker points.
As time goes by, we need more and more different terminal versions.
A very rare version of the early stator-ignition plate had a grease pad for the ignition cam.
This pad is locked on a tiny shaft and besides it is locked against rotation by the wall of the capacitor.
As we normally remove the capacitor right next to the external coil;
this new terminal had to be provided with an extra function.
In order to connect terminal and high tension coil a cable is needed.
Some people use a piece of wire and some kit. Mostly this works well for
some time, but a more professional cable will last longer and is easier
A special plug makes mounting easier and a hard profiled hose will prevent insulation problems.
Condensators for mopeds and motor cycles can be bought everywhere and yet we assemble our own type!
The quality of many standard capacitor is poor.
After troubles in Luxembourg on a warm day in 2006 we decided: 'From now on .... we will only use an external condensator'.
Mounted on a cool spot it will give less troubles. Problem is of course the vulnerability on a motor cycle or moped.
Funny to see how this casing has changed in time. The first ones (not shown) were quite ugly.
We kept on improving them. In fact this tubular condensator offers the highest quality, but making them is very time-consuming.
That is why a new approach saw the daylight.
A new rectangular design and instead of 1600 Volts it will operate until
600 Volts for alternating current. Recently we provided its wire with a cable supportpiece made of black POM as shown in the bottom right corner.
On request a special 2000V DC-version was made, but it became much bigger than the standaard one. Nevertheless it will fitt perfectly on a standard external coil.
However we advice the small rectangular one, because its is much cheaper and during tests this small condensator seamed to be very reliable.
S A D D L E S
BUDDY SEAT EXTENTION
Some years ago we started with big saddles, because we knew that
you certainly will face bottom problems when riding long distances.
People making long bicycle trips: often are getting injuries.
We also suggested to use a big piece of foam when removing a nice buddy seat is out of the question.
At that time two friends tested a simple piece of foam, which had been wrapped with ductile tape.
It worked fairly well, but within an hour all air had gone out of the foam.
A hard flat seat cushion was the result; by turning the cushion regularly its comfort improved significantly.
So we changed the design, using NASA memory (lazy) foam and a dual layer of high elastic silicon rubber.
Result: it feels much better with no pressure points.
We tested this special pillow during long rides in France last year. A cotton cover is used for good ventilation.
Our conclusion is: great extention to prevent pressure points. It makes ride of more than 10 hours possible.
The cover has now been equiped with a Velcro fastener for easy removal of the foam and cleaning of the cover.
SADDLE FOR VERY LONG TRIPS
When you are planning to make a long trip on a mobylette provided with a buddy seat, you should take some precautions
to prevent red and blue stripes on your bottom!
We tested buddy seats from other marques, but all buddy seats were not acceptable.
A simple and quick solution advice is: use a large piece of foam rubber!
But - as always - there is a better alternative:
a motor cycle saddle such as applied on old English motor cycles.
We bought some for our long trips in 2017.
Of course this saddle doesn't fit on a mobylette and some additional parts had
to be designed to get the saddle in an optimal position.
The second image on the right shows a special stainless steel support,
which embraces the saddle pipe and is connected with the saddle frame by
a hinged bolt.
A lot of experimenting was done with the 2" and 3" conical rear springs, but the problem was not the suspension itself.
Main question within this project was:" how can we lower or prevent high
Eventually we have chosen for short 2" springs instead of 3" springs and
some additional layers of hard rubber and foam rubber under the saddle
A luggage carrier, some steel plates and two springs will support the
saddle from behind.
Finally when all functioned well, we found lot of space under the saddle; we gratefully accepted this for a small saddle bag.
F R A M E P A R T S
A good example of a "nowhere-to-get-part" the front fork leg of an AV31.
Perhaps you find a pair, but at the underside, grease and sand mostly have affected the diameter of the shafts.
This will result in too much play in the front suspension.
Fortunately we have new forks from the seventies, that we can dissasemble and use a piece of their shafts.
LUGGAGE CARRIER FOR AV92L
Last year our man Stan needed a luggage carrier on his new AV92L for his long tip to Spain.
Those racks are hard to get and often quite rusty, so he decided to design and manufacture one.
He chose - very wisely - for stainless steel pipe and MIG welding.
On this AV92L you will see a small Lycett saddle for lightweight motor
cycles. A nice alternative for mobylette riders, who are fond of long
Actually saddle and carrier were just a small part of this project. We
saw this AV92L several times appear on the Dutch auction site
Several owners decided not to finish this project.
A lot of restoring had already been done, but it seamed that there was a big problem.
Later we discovered a frame number under a thick layer of paint and the relay box definitely needed a total overhaul.
LICENSE PLATE HOLDER
At the time that in the Netherlands ugly license plates were introduced,
we were restoring some firm mopeds.
On these SP98 and SP94TT a firm licence plate would not conflict with
moreover a Lucas tail light could be added with a brake light and a
license plate lighting.
A special mould was constructed for pressing the plates. The design was
inspired by Motobécanes licence plates on the vélomoteurs.
We still have a few of these plates in stock and of course the special
This heavy piece of metal is not shown under "tools", because - being a
part production tool - its application is better seen here.
E M B L E M S
Several years ago a number of emblems was manufactured by way of
laser cutting. Stainless steel was one of the options, but nowadays
aluminium is possible, too.
Today you can buy these emblems anywhere for a fair price.
Other emblems must be handmade: this means sometimes a lot of work.
Take a piece of aluminum, a drill and file and start working.....
However from time to time new initiatives show up.
Recently Jozef Vaessen machined next emblem. Not completely done, but very promising.
Tank emblems are pressed in heated plastic. This can be done because we have found several original compression moulds.
After compression there is still a lot to do: sawing, grinding and painting in the desired colour.
Actually, this is done for good friends only and for our private projects, because making these emblems is time consuming.
The small screws threaded with M3 x 0,9 must be manufactured, too.
The black and gold version was special made for some SP98's.
In summer 2017 we received a message that MBK gave a French company VSX permission to reproduce spares.
From now on this company offers you new emblems 'Mobylette' and 'Motobecane'.
Mobymatic is not on their program as far as we can see.
3D - P R I N T I N G
3D PLASTIC & METAL PRINTING
A technology, that already exists for many years, but
is getting grown-up now.
Our designs will be sent on-line to a professional manufacturer. They will start checking if the object is well designed to prevent problems during
The yellow plate used to be compulsory in The Netherlands in order to recognise a moped in traffic.
With 3D design and printing you can easily personalise such a plate.
We already designed many plates in PA12 (nylon), but printing on a flatbed printer is far from cheap.
Quality however is excellent, and that is the only thing that counts for us.
SP98 housing for H14 Gurtner-carburettor
A recent PantinNL-design is an air intake cover for mobylette models SP98 and AV98. Up till now it has not been printed yet. To order just the outer casing is pretty expensive.
But when somebody is desperately looking for this part and money plays a minor role, then it may be a nice solution.
Perhaps I order one on Black Friday. I do not need it right now.
Variator cage by Frank Franssen from the Netherlands
An other thrilling design is from Frank Franssen, who is experimenting a lot with Malossi and MBK variators.
For his new variator he needed a special cage for 6 rolls. The material is PA12 (nylon) and is quite strong.
You won't find a simple extrusion 3D-printer here.
We prefer a 3D flatbed printer, because distinct gradients in temperature as noticed at extrusion printers,
can lead to cracks in the part.
The advantages of 3D outsourcing are clear:
No high investment.
Many different materials.
No production troubles.
It saves room in your workshop.
RELAY BOX CAP
This cap can be used for a simple relay box on models like: AV92, SP93,
SP94TT and 99 models.
Looking at old caps, mostly their colour has changed from white to
yellow-brown. We have chosen for nylon and several different designs
have been made.
Its definitive shape is a matter of time.
Price is interesting (under 7 Euro!)
TANK SCREW CAP FOR AV42/44.
This screw cap can be found on the AV42 and AV44 models from 1968 and later.
Before 1968 the push-pull tap had a much smaller cap.
Suddenly we were running out of stock, naturally when we needed those very badly.
Happily a good friend could help us, but it was clear this cap will be hard to get next years.
A digital version was already available, so we only had to fine tune the
rectangular hole, that offers a special locking function.
TANK CAP FOR KAPTEIN MOPED EARLY FIFTIES.
This project is just but a study to examine the possibilities for
3d-printed spares that contact E10 (petrol containing 10% alcohol.
Finally we intend to print some in PETG plastic, whereas the stainless
steel-bronze version is mainly meant
to discover the limits of modern printers.
We were especially interested in the way how all fine details of the logo would be represented.
Stainless steel printing requires however wall sizes of 1 mm at least.
After several examinations it was clear that the design had to be
For its sealing function we have applied quad rings. On the right a prototype in red nylon is shown.
Stainless steel version!
Dimensions and details of our red proto were conform expectation. Both quad rings fitted perfectly.
After some checks and a little fine-tuning, our stainless steel version was ordered.
At Pantin we still had to remove some powder rests which had not been
removed by the factory. On a lathe we had to machine the grooves for the
With the right stitch chisel (tungsten carbide) and some lathe accessories this was a piece of cake.
The first 3D-printed - fully functional- fuel cap was a fact. This summer it will be tested during some rides.
In order to avoid under-pressure in the petrol tank: a cap is mostly
provided with a vent hole.
Small holes and often filled with powder. Normally you have to drill
that hole again. In case of stainless steel you must be very careful,
because a broken drill is hard to remove.
In this design we have used the idea of a later model, where a small pipe with a tiny bore leads to the vent opening.
Advantage of a flatbed printer
On the third picture of the metal version, you see Pantin printed in a
up-side down position. Thanks to the technology of a flatbed printer
this is possible.
A common extrusion printer has to work with all
kind of extra supporting material.
Supporting material means a bad influence on quality of letters and
small emblem details; besides it means extra work to remove all
In fact you should always adapt your design for the way the object will
be manufactured. When using a extrusion printer you simply skip text on
that - impossible - spot.
As the demands of wall thickness are less rigid for most plastics, you
can make the letters more accurate and smaller.
More studies: aluminium and POM
Unlike the previously printed objects we also had a different approach of manufacturing.
Jozef, who is a specialist in programming NC-tools made some caps in aluminium and POM.
On the right an aluminium version is shown, which was turned on a lathe and milled afterwards.
Those caps look very nice; however better results will come when our design will be fine-tuned for his machining-tools.
Nevertheless this cap is ready for use and will certainly function well.
OTHER EXAMPLE OF 3D METAL PRINTING
A brand new promissing technogy for our hobby.
The ring has made of 60% stainless steel type 420 and 40% of bronze.
Conform the plastic printers, a computer design in .STL-format is directly send to the manufacturer.
They will check if the object - in that kind of material- is well designed for manufacturing in a 3D printer.
After receipt of this ring we checked all sizes. The inner hole
size=28mm was 0,2m smaller than the nominal size in the drawing, but
beforehand we had already a tolerance of 0,5 mm in mind.
Some machining will achieve the perfect tolerance. It's for us a
nice learning process for 'How to construct a part for 3D-printing?'
Next designs are already planned.
B O L T S & N U T S
Special screw thread... a problem for many, because normal bolts and nuts don't fit.
Not for us anymore: making those and applying a proper heat treatment is no problem.
Sometimes bolts have to be hardened and tempered for demanding functions.
Rivets is an other category; when we need a special size we just
make those using a lathe and applying a proper heat treatment afterwards.
G A S K E T S & S E A L S
Not long ago paper gaskets could be a temporary problem. Nowadays most
joints can be quickly manufactured out of a piece of packing paper.
On the right item #1 the often forgotten paper packing which is located
behind the ignition ground plate.
Lately we discovered the function of this gasket: it insulates the ignition part from the hot crankshaft case.
Item #2 is a small deflector (0-ring) that removes oil from the shaft.
Most gaskets can be made. We even make aluminium gaskets for the cylinder head of the first models.
Formerly they used to apply some liquid gasket.
MORE PAPER GASKETS
Some examples of gaskets we make ourselves are shown on the right.
Moreover: all kind of metal, viton and teflon gaskets can be made, too.
That is quite handy, when you face a new type of gasket, that nobody has in stock.
ALUMINIUM GASKET FOR AV3 AND AV31
Normally they use a liquid gasket for sealing cylinder and cylinder head.
But we use an aluminium gasket....
Long ago we had to apply an aluminium gasket for geometric reasons.
The results were better than expected. So we have used an aluminum gaskets since.
It can be made out of an AV7 cylinder head gasket.
V A R I O U S A R T I C L E S
In the hubs of our SP99, 99Z, SP98 and some other "heavy" models you will find a special construction of
the rear wheel's hub.
Dismounting of the wheel is possible, while the chain and chain wheel will stay in position.
This construction has also been applied for German Mopeds such as Zundapp.
For Zundapp there are rubber bushing available, but those are of a minor quality.
Frank Fr. had this problem and we found out that the Zundapp bushings were too soft.
You need rubber with a hardness of 80-90 degrees Shore.
For rubber this is pretty hard. Finally polyurethan was chosen.
Next problem for Frank was to process this raw material. Solution was again simple: apply a grinding tool.
The very first tests on the road were promising.
After this job was finished, we heard that in France hub rubber bushings are produced again.
During the Heerhugowaard fair the checked hardness was not very high. I would prefer the bushings made by Frank.
For an other project we had to make 4 new pins, because all were - with a lot of play - connected to the hub.
The assembly has been riveted at the hub.
In this case we could apply the original bushings from Motobécane, made of hard rubber.
RINGS FOR CHAIN GUARD SCREWS
Black rings for the well-known chain guard screws are available
nowadays, but sometimes people you do not want to apply black rings.
So one day we made some white ones for a special project. The first ones
always will take some time, but after a while the rings can be produced
SPROCKET FOR RELAY-BOX AV92, SP92, SP94TT, SP98 AND 99
Since we prefer small ones, we had to make those by ourselves.
At the old worn sprocket all teeth will be removed by way of grinding.
A new sprocket will adapted on a lathe and all will be welded.
If you want such a small sprocket do not ask us, but consult a professional company. We just like prototyping.
On the right you see a sprocket with 12 teeth, which is ready to be welded.
Airsal is still producing cylinders and pistons for mobylette and of
course for a lot of other marques.
We use the square 50-cc AV7 on our models, but some long exhausts will
give troubles like the exhaust of models SP98 and D52.
The copper ring, which seals the connection between exhaust pipe and
cylinder can be deformed too much and will be pressed to deep into the
After a while the exhaust pipe is not sealed anymore and the large gland
nut will be loose.
We solved this problem by putting a thin bronze ring in front of the
copper washer. A big radius prevents extra turbulence of the outlet
Thanks to this simple and cheap solution all problems have disappeared
A brake plug is a casting in Zamac, which is fixed at the end of the handlebars
ZAMAC is an acronym for Zinc, Aluminium, Magnesium, and Copper alloy.
Casting Zamac is not so complicated. For this foundry process we have
use the lost wax casting method. This way of casting is very old: more
than 6000 years ago people used this kind of manufacturing.
After casting some machining is required, because the brake cable will
be guided by a bronze bushing, that also is threaded for fixing the plug
at the handlebars with a small screw.
Zamak is a weak material and a threaded hole is quickly damaged.
The picture in the middle shows the mould for making the wax model. This model was made of polyester resign.
The picture at the bottom shows some rough castings.